Master Thoughts

To spend time with a Master Sommelier is to be inspired by the depth of their knowledge and talents. 

Dimitri Mesnard MS is one such person but surprisingly very approachable and humble.  He prefers to be low key. This was evident in a scene from the Netflix documentary ‘Somm,’ where he casually walked across the room after the Master Sommelier exam results were announced.

Dimitri’s journey to become a Master Sommelier in2003 began with his move to the UK in 1998. He apprenticed under Gerald Basset – one of the very few people in the world who are a Master Sommelier, Master of Wine and hold a Wine MBA. Dimitri trained at Basset’sHotel du Vin (before Hotel TerraVina).  My question about what Gerard was like to work with brought forth a wistful smile from Dimitri (Gerard passed away in 2019), he recalled, “Gerard taught me much about wine – he leads by example, quality matters over price, and it is the story behind the wine that helps make.  Gerard gives his somms ownership of their wine programmes.  In the world of wine, there are a number of people who inspire and motivate – Gerard was definitely one of them.”

Dimitri is also one of the few MS who has a hand in making their own wines. He inherited a small vineyard in Brinay (Quincy appellation that is south west of Sancerre) where he makes a Sauvignon Blanc called “Quartz” with the help of the Tatin family. His first vintage was in 2018. It’s a rare wine with only 4500 bottles produced in a good year that he generously shares with friends and family. 

A day in the life of a Master Sommelier

Regarding a typical working day, Dimitri says that no two days are ever the same.  His days quite often have a tasting element in it – if he’s hosting a tasting, he of course will try all the wines before anyone arrives as well as arranging them in a sequence where each style/grape precedes the next.  For wine dinners, he will carefully pair the wines to show their best with the menu.  After work? A cocktail is a welcome change and a must – mojitos being a favourite. Beer? Only when he’s judging wines as he considers it a refreshing palate cleanser or at a sports event with friends. 

Dimitri is the current Chairman of the Court of Master Sommeliers (Europe) and has conducted many exams over the years. 

Nellie Ming Lee:  What usually happens at exams? 

D:  There usually is an accident at some point – students are nervous and for some reason, trays seem to have holes in them during the service portion of the exam.  It’s difficult not to laugh but we must keep a serious face on.

N:  After 20 years as a Master Sommelier, do you think if you were to start over again, would you consider the exam more difficult now than it was when you did it? 

D:  We all have a different background and approach to studying.  The world of wine is ever changing with more vineyards, new winemakers, and regions evolving. 

The Practical and Theory sections of the MS exams are more detailed now perhaps but information is much easier to find on Google.  There are many things to remember but yet it is still the essentials that matter the most. 

When I did my MS it was books, maps, visiting wine regions firsthand, talking to the people who make wines and apprenticing with an established Master Sommelier. 

Tasting is the same. Yes there are more wines, but it is practice that makes perfect.  Palate memory is gained through dedicated training. 

N:  What do you think the future holds for Sommliers in general?  Ipads didn’t replace the somm. 

D:  It’s quite interesting to see how wines have evolved and how people’s tastes have changed. I see the younger generation veering more towards cocktails and craft beer. Perhaps its an economic decision for this generation.But truly, it’s a cycle because wine has and will always be here when one is ready to explore it, which is why a sommelier is important. 

N:  What is the future for Sommeliers?

D:  The way how a wine programme fits into a restaurant and aligns with the vision of the Chef/Owner is important.  Wines must make a return on investment (salary/inventory management/costing).  Consumers are very price savvy too, so it’s what makes a wine unique is the key difference as to why it is chosen.  It’s a must to make a wine list not about what’s expensive, but what’s interesting and has a great story behind it to make it memorable.

N:  What do you look for on a wine list? 

D:  As a person, because I really don’t want to make a fuss about who I am when I dine out – I look for these qualities in a wine list:  what is style of the restaurant?  Are the wines of interest and do they show a certain style/personality?  And key is:  do the wines ‘fit the menu’?  A sommelier is the closest connection that a guest has to the person who made the wine and to the chef who created the menu.