Former President of the Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB), Allan Sichel, says the French wine region is stepping up efforts to re-engage China as exports continue to slide, with hopes that new campaigns, sustainable farming, and a growing appetite for white wines can help reshape its image among younger drinkers.
Speaking with Vino Joy News during his visit to the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival, Sichel outlined how Bordeaux is navigating this period of change — from export struggles and its new campaign for consumer engagement to the uncertain future of en primeur.
Reconnecting with China
China remains one of Bordeaux’s most important markets, though the heyday of record-breaking shipments has faded. “China was once our number one export market — it’s now second,” Sichel admits. “We don’t see recovery yet. 2024 was a low point, and the trend in 2025 continues.”
Yet Sichel stresses this is not a rejection of Bordeaux, but rather the consequence of structural issues. “Total wine imports to China have slumped dramatically, but Bordeaux is maintaining its market share,” he notes. The region still dominates among French appellations, accounting for 68% of all French AOC wines exported worldwide. In 2024, China represented 15% of Bordeaux’s total export volume and 17% of its value, now ranking just behind the United States.
“The challenges are stock overhang, slower economic activity, and weaker restaurant trade. But these are cycles — and Bordeaux will be ready when the market returns,” he ascertains.
Interestingly, while overall exports to China have dropped, one segment is quietly flourishing: white wine. “Even if Bordeaux globally has shrunk, exports of white wines to China grew by 25% in 2024 in volume,” Sichel says. “It’s still small, but it’s an encouraging sign.”
The shift mirrors global drinking trends, particularly among younger consumers who favour lighter, fresher styles over traditional heavy reds. “It’s part of a broader evolution,” Sichel adds. “We’re seeing more dry whites, rosés, even sparkling wines like Crémant de Bordeaux gaining traction. Bordeaux is far more diverse than people think — and we need to show that.”
A Campaign to Break the Mold
That mission underpins Bordeaux’s new global campaign, “Join the Bordeaux Crew”, a follow-up to Everyday Bordeaux and More Bordeaux, More Colorful. The initiative spotlights real Bordeaux winemakers — young, energetic, and diverse — who embody the region’s approachable side.
“Our goal is to correct the perception that Bordeaux is only about prestige and high price,” says Sichel. “Grand Cru Classé wines make up just 3% of production. The other 97% are everyday wines — easy-going, fruit-driven, and ready to drink.”
Launched last year in France and now debuting in China, the campaign blends social media storytelling with authentic faces from the region. “We want Bordeaux to feel youthful and fun again,” Sichel explains. “It’s about making wine more inclusive — not intimidating.”
The Green Revolution
Bordeaux’s transformation is not just cultural — it’s also ecological. Sustainability has become one of the CIVB’s central missions, with 75% of Bordeaux’s vineyards now certified sustainable.
“We’ve developed our own label, Sustainable Impact, to make certification more accessible,” Sichel explains. “Organic and biodynamic vineyards now account for about 25% of Bordeaux, up significantly from just a few years ago.”
Rather than mandating one approach, Sichel advocates flexibility. “Organic farming has its advantages, but it also means more tractor use and soil compaction. What matters most is reducing our overall impact — energy, water, waste. Sustainability is a journey, not a checkbox.”
To accelerate progress, the CIVB funds local “animators” who guide small groups of 20–25 producers, helping them raise their environmental standards collectively. “Many Bordeaux estates are small family operations. They can’t afford full-time compliance teams,” Sichel says. “So we support them with expertise and audits, ensuring credibility with external oversight.”
The initiative aligns Bordeaux with the Sustainable Wine Roundtable, a global benchmark founded in the UK to harmonise environmental standards across wine regions. “We’re comparing ourselves with California, Portugal, Italy,” Sichel adds. “We want to stay in step with the world — and keep improving.”
Rethinking En Primeur
Few traditions are as closely tied to Bordeaux’s identity as en primeur — the system that allows wines to be sold years before bottling. Yet in recent years, its appeal has waned. “There’s been a downturn,” Sichel admits. “But I don’t believe it’s the end of en primeur.”
He describes the mechanism as “a fabulous tool” for growers to secure early cash flow, a system that’s existed for 150 years. “The problem isn’t the concept — it’s the market context. Prices rose too fast, and buyers began to lose confidence.”
Still, Sichel sees opportunity in adaptation. “Perhaps en primeur will become more selective — reserved for top châteaux or great vintages like 2025,” he says. “Not every year deserves an en primeur release. In weak vintages, it might make more sense to wait.” However, he noted CIVB has no power setting guidelines for releasing prices.
The 2025 vintage, he hints, could reignite excitement: “It’s a small-volume, high-quality vintage, highly concentrated — the kind that will age beautifully. These are the wines collectors want to secure early.”
A Future Built on Balance
For Sichel, Bordeaux’s strength lies in its resilience — the ability to endure cycles of boom and contraction. “We’ve seen these patterns for centuries,” he reflects. “Bordeaux adapts, it evolves.”
That adaptability is now expressed through younger winemakers, innovative styles, and a willingness to confront hard truths. “People may drink less wine, but they’re drinking better,” he says. “They’re curious, they want to understand what makes one wine different from another.”
And that curiosity, Sichel believes, will keep Bordeaux alive for centuries to come. “In 500 years, Bordeaux will still be producing wines of delicacy, freshness and quality,” he says with quiet conviction. “We just have to keep earning our place in the glass.”
Discover more from Vino Joy News
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
