Michel Rolland, the world-renowned wine consultant, spoke with a twinkle in his eye, as we sat down for a video interview at the tail end of his extensive tour across Asia in late October. “If you call me one day and ask me to come to the moon to plant whatever variety, I’m going,” he exclaims, his voice brimming with enthusiasm and a hint of playful energy that defied his 75 years of age.
This statement is quintessential Rolland – a blend of whimsy and profound dedication to his craft wherever or however extreme that leads. It’s this blend that has taken him to over 150 estates across 23 countries, consulting, producing, and now to Spain.
The R&G collection, named aptly after Rolland and the founder of leading Spanish group of wine growers ARAEX, Javier Galarreta, is a bold step into the diverse terroirs of Spain. Rolland’s enthusiasm is palpable as he speaks of this project. “Spain is certainly one of the most interesting places in terms of wine production,” he shares, his eyes lighting up.
Much to Prove
The collection includes wines from Rioja, Rueda, Ribera del Duero, Priorat, lesser known sites near Toledo Mountains in La Mancha and most recently Jerez.
The wine style as Michel has famously known is modern, plush and classic. The best wines as he describes are wines with “a higher profile”, a phrase that, to those familiar with his work, suggests wines with greater concentration and riper fruit flavors. “Perhaps too sophisticated for younger palates, perhaps too classic,” he paused, seemingly lost in his own thought. Then, with a wry smile, he added, “But, you know, I’m a classic guy, an old guy, and that’s my culture and my taste. So, I like it.”
“Perhaps too sophisticated for younger palates, perhaps too classic,” he paused, seemingly lost in his own thought. Then, with a wry smile, he added, “But, you know, I’m a classic guy, an old guy, and that’s my culture and my taste. So, I like it.”
Michel Rolland
As for wine trends and if they are swaying his winemaking decisions, he shook his head. “No, I have no idea about something new. I know what I like in Spain, and that’s why we are in Rioja Alavesa first because we are able to produce the best wines from Rioja.”
He acknowledges Spain’s rapid evolution over the past two decades. “Spain improved a lot in the last 10, 15, 20 years,” he notes. Yet, Rolland believes Spain still has much to prove. With majority of wines consumed domestically, Spanish wines are lagging behind other leading wine producers like France and Italy in export markets. In that sense, he laments, “Spain is quite new in the world market.”
This challenge seems to have invigorated Rolland, who sees it as an opportunity to showcase the unique qualities of Spanish terroir and varietals through R&G collection. “It was an interesting challenge for a crazy winemaker as I am, and that’s why I said yes and I’m here,” he remarked with an ease for a man who had trotted global vineyards and practically coined the term “the flying winemaker”.
“It was an interesting challenge for a crazy winemaker as I am, and that’s why I said yes and I’m here.”
Michel Rolland
A Merlot specialist, born and raised in the heartland of Pomerol at his family estate Château Le Bon Pasteur, Rolland’s imprint on wine style is found beyond Merlot and has helped crafted and shaped some of the world’s best wines from Napa’s Screaming Eagle to Chile’s Lapostelle. “More variety we can find, I think more interesting it is for my job. Because in fact, at one moment, the winemaker is making wine for people obviously, but for himself, too,” he states.
For Javier, the other man that lends his name to the collection, the decision to launch the collection was simple. “It was me who approached him,” he begins, recalling how he presented the project to Michel back in 2009. ” I thought of him because Michel was number one, both personally and professionally,” he said with conviction when asked about the genesis of the project.
The collaboration officially took flight in 2010. It was launched with two vintages from Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Rueda, however, had to wait a little longer. “Michel didn’t approve of the viticulture in Rueda at the time,” Javier shares, giving an example of Rolland’s meticulous standards. It wasn’t until 2011 that they produced their first vintage in Rueda, ensuring it met their high expectations.
Galarreta’s vision for the project was clear: to showcase the finest Spanish terroir. “For that purpose, Michel chose those vineyards in the different regions we were working from,” he says. The timing was fortuitous, coinciding with the post-Lehman Brothers economic crisis, which ironically offered them the opportunity to select what they considered the best plots for wine verification.
As Javier recounts the story, there’s a sense of pride in how the project evolved, expanding to more regions in Priorat, Eldoze near Toledo Mountain and Jerez.
The wines from the collection are structured in a brand pyramid that represents the depth and breadth of their offerings. At its base, the Premium Category includes R&G Rioja, Rolland Galarreta Ribera del Duero and Rolland Galarreta Rueda. Ascending to the Super Premium Category, the collection diversifies with Rolland Galarreta Clos d’En Ferran Priorat, Rolland Galarreta Eldoze, and Rolland Galarreta Esencia. At the pinnacle, the Fine Wines Category, with Iconic, represents the zenith of their winemaking.
As the conversation goes, Galarreta, with an air of contemplative excitement, reveals the possible next step in the evolution of the R&G collection. He notes the shifting tides of the market, where there’s a growing appetite for white wines, though he quickly clarifies that they aren’t venturing into the realm of sparkling wines yet. The focus, he shares, is on potentially introducing an ‘iconic white’ under the Roland Gallareta label.
He muses over whether this new white wine should be a unique blend or a pure expression of Albariño from Rias Baixas region or alternatively a white from the southern regions. “We think our portfolio is strong enough to add new SKUs,” he ascertains.
ASIA
As our conversations shifted to Asia, where the two veterans spent a five-day tour hosting seminars, masterclasses and dinners for hundreds of wine trade, consumers and media in Seoul and Taipei, both are impressed by the vigor and promise in the two markets.
“Michel and I were talking that it is the right time to visit these markets. Because after pandemic, people are back to buying. We are very satisfied with the events that our partners here have prepared and organized for us. Definitely it is a good time for us now in Asia,” says Javier who was on his first trip back to Asia post pandemic.
The collection can now be found in nearly all Asian markets, adds the group’s Asia Pacific and Eastern Europe Sales Director Ivan Aquino. R&G wines have found their way into China, South Korea, Japan, Taiwan, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, the Philippines, and more recently, Kazakhstan.
Aquino highlights the main objective for ARAEX in Asia: further development and realization of the region’s vast potential. This vision led to the opening of their Hong Kong office in 2017, a strategic move underlining the importance of a local presence for promoting Spanish wines more effectively. “Now that the pandemic is over, we will intensify our efforts, not just commercially, but also in terms of education, to enhance the image of Spanish wines in Asia,” he asserts.
Looking Ahead
Galarreta shared ARAEX’s ambitious vision for the future, a fitting epilogue to ARAEX’s 30-year anniversary since its founding in 1993. First on their agenda is achieving carbon neutrality by adopting of the European Union’s Product Environmental Footprint program. Though the wine producer did not reveal its specific timeline, the group aims to implement organic viticulture for all of its 16 wineries by 2025.
The group also plans to harness AI to create a tool to help small producers predict market trends and optimize production. The climax of Galarreta’s revelations is the forthcoming launch of histamine-free wines, set to debut as early as next March.
In a reflective moment, Galarreta then turned to a more personal note, revisiting the year 1993, which holds a special place in his heart. “For me, my vintage is 1993,” he said, his voice tinged with nostalgia. “That’s the year I founded Araex, with a few wine producers from Rioja Alavesa. Despite not being a great vintage, as Michel will say, but it’s my vintage.”
“For me, my vintage is 1993. That’s the year I founded Araex, with a few wine producers from Rioja Alavesa. Despite not being a great vintage, as Michel will say, but it’s my vintage.”
Javier Galarreta
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