When talking about Spain’s premium wine regions, many in the Chinese wine industry think of Rioja, the country’s highest-ranking DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada) region. However, besides Rioja, Spain has another DOCa region: Priorat. These are the only two DOCa-certified regions in Spain.
Recently, Vino Joy News joined a three-day press trip to explore this premium wine region in depth. We have found that Priorat’s wines stand at the pinnacle of quality, with a distinct character across its grape varieties, styles, and terroir. Moreover, there are ample opportunities for these wines in the Chinese market.
A Different Spanish Wine Region
On the afternoon of October 20, I joined Priorat DOCa staff on a bus from Barcelona to Priorat. The staff uniforms displayed “Priorat DOQ” – DOQ stands for “Denominació d’Origen Qualificada” in Catalan, which is equivalent to the Spanish DOCa. The locals prefer the Catalan term to represent their region.
After nearly two hours of travel, we arrived in Priorat. Before entering the region, we drove along the left, with the blue Mediterranean Sea nearby, and the plains and gentle hills on the right. But upon entering Priorat, the wide, straight highway turned into narrow, winding mountain roads, and the terrain became steep.
Priorat’s vineyards are nestled in these rugged mountains, where terraces are carved into the steep slopes, with vines planted according to the natural contours. The orientation and elevation of each slope create countless micro-plots, leading to very limited production. As one of the local staff explained, “Although both are DOCa, Priorat’s output is a hundred times smaller than Rioja’s.”
These complex plots also give Priorat a range of microclimates. Some areas are at 500 meters above sea level, while others are at just 300 meters. Some spots are dry, while others are influenced by moist Mediterranean breezes, resulting in subtle differences in wine styles – some are elegant and complex, others fresh and delicate.
The grape varieties in Priorat also differ from much of Spain. While Tempranillo is often associated with Spanish wine, it is virtually absent in Priorat. Here, Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah dominate, producing both single-varietal and blended wines.
Localized, Small-Scale Production
During the three-day tour, the organizers held wine tastings in four different villages, featuring local wineries and inviting Master of Wine Pedro Ballesteros to share his perspective on outstanding Priorat wines. While sampling wines with various styles, Vino Joy News spoke with winery managers who shared insights on their international market presence.
Although the wine styles of each winery may vary significantly, their market strategies unexpectedly align, focusing on local and European markets. About 45% of Priorat’s wines are exported, primarily to the U.S., Switzerland, and nearby European countries, with little focus on Asia, particularly China.
This is partly because most Priorat wineries are small, family-owned estates that lack the resources for global operations. Proximity to European markets with low or no tax makes exporting to Europe convenient, as it feels less like “international trade.” For instance, Trossos Del Priorat exports 70% of its wines, mainly within Europe, with Switzerland as its largest market. The winery manager Eva Escude mentioned that they don’t plan to enter the Asian market due to the complexity and distance.
For wineries exporting globally, many work through group companies or international trade firms. For example, Cellers Scaladei exports worldwide and has a strong reputation in Asia, but all exports are handled by a Spanish export company, leaving the winery uninvolved in the specifics.
The low production volume also limits wineries from selling their products worldwide. For instance, white wines with rising popularity in Priorat highlights the issue: this region is known for producing very high-quality white wines. With the increasing demand for white wines in recent years, more Priorat wineries are now crafting whites using varieties such as Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, and Pedro Ximénez.
Although some of these white wines are well-suited for China’s small wine bar channels, the limited annual production—only a few thousand bottles—restricts global opportunities; this output is barely sufficient to meet the demand in the Spanish market.
Stereotype of Spanish Wines: A Barrier to the Chinese Market
Many wineries prefer to sell to the U.S. and Switzerland due to higher consumer incomes, which allow for better price premiums. During tastings, I asked about wine prices, finding that these wines retail in Spain for between €20-30 at the lower end and over €80 at the higher end. As one winery representative mentioned, taxes would make these wines prohibitively expensive in China.
China can indeed support high-quality, high-value wines, but the challenge is that Chinese consumers often expect Spanish wines to be inexpensive and good value. This perception creates a barrier for Priorat wines. “Currently, the Chinese market is experiencing soft demand coupled with decreasing purchasing power. Adding to this challenge is the negative impression created by many cheap Spanish wines, making it very difficult for our wines to sell in China,” said Valenti Llagostera from Max Doix winery.
The winery’s wines were sold at steep discounts on Vinehoo.com in China, discouraging importers from ordering.
However, small-production boutique wineries can offer advantages. For importers, such wines come with low minimum order requirements,which means low inventory pressure. Vinicola Del Priorat, for instance, has a modest presence in China, exporting 600 bottles of high-end wines and 2,400 bottles of mid-range wines annually, primarily for corporate orders, with Chinese customers placing some orders every year.
Sarah Liao, who has been promoting European wines and has visited Priorat several times, believes that this region needs to establish a distinct reputation as fine wine in China to differentiate itself from other Spanish wines.
“The Priorat region needs to establish a regional brand along with one or two leading brands, enhance education and promotion, and focus on private customers,” Liao said. “Wines from this region are not primarily aimed at high production volumes and mass sales.”
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