Five Generations, One Question: How Do You Sustain a Vineyard in a Changing World?

Familia Torres, with its humble beginnings as grape growers, first documented in 1559, has been part of Spain’s viticultural heritage since 1870 (today – it is the 4^th & 5^th generation leading the way). There are documented records of the family’s holdings as viticulturists dating back to 1559. 

Each generation has left its imprint on the family’s history – from growing grapes, to making brandy, from rebuilding almost from scratch again after World War II to venturing forth to other parts of the wine world & in Spain to now making the best of what is at hand during times of unpredictable climate changes. 

Through all of this runs a common thread: a desire for sustainability as a family for the next generation, for the lands that are a foundation of their vineyards, and to survive these turbulent times of the world’s climate changes. 

The world is changing and wine regions are feeling it. Many are becoming warmer and drier with unpredictable weather events that can greatly impact a vintage. One would think that frost and hail is not possible in Spain, but it has happened in Penedes’ Les Torres, most recently in June 2024 and also Catalonia in the summers of 2021, 2022, and 2023. 

Still, the biggest fear is drought… It is always in the back of a winemaker’s mind as water is becoming a very precious resource on which vines are very dependent on.  What is there to do aside from praying to the rain gods? Make the best use of what is at hand: collecting rainwater and minimizing its evaporation, burying irrigation lines and ‘fertigation’ – nutrients intended for the soil is put into the water before it goes into a vineyard. Even leaving grapes longer on their vines serve a dual purpose: maximising ripeness while mitigating CO2 emissions as vines do much to ‘clear’ the air that sustains all life. 

Regenerative viticulture is a key foundation upon which Familia Torres practices for all its vineyards. Soil regeneration is important, with cover crops to keep in moisture, organic matter such as compost and vine canopy clippings enrich the soil, and increased biodiversity – ladybugs, bee hives and other beneficial insects all help to keep a vineyard healthy. 

The 3^rd generation led by Miguel Torres i Carbo, worked endlessly to rebuild the family’s vineyards after the destructions of  World War II.  He also expanded the family’s vineyard holdings to Penedes.  The family also saw a future outside of Spain – venturing forth to establish their name in Chile. 

In the 1970s, it was Miguel A. Torres of the 4th generation who became one of the 1^st winemakers to plant classic grapes in Spain such as Cabernet Sauvignon in Penedes. The result  was Mas La Plana, now recognized as one of the world’s best Cabernet Sauvignons by Gault & Millau. Today it is a 29hA estate with its original vines well established with the help of regenerative viticulture. The wines are aged in French oak, another innovation of Miguel, as most winemakers of that era used American oak. 

Next up, Miguel had a go at Chardonnay, planting this revered grape in the 1980s. suHe was inspired by Cistercian monks who came to Burgundy (circa 1098) and made Burgundy what it is today by identifying the best places to plant vines and specific climats. He was confident that he could find similar sites in Spain. This led him to Milmanda castle and the vineyards (15hA today) around it. It has become a DO – Conca de Barbera in the province of Tarragona. Planted with Chardonnay cuttings from Burgundy, the soils are a lime-rich calcareous clay which are blessed with good drainage & water retention, with a mostly moderate Mediterranean climate. A sip of Milmanda Chardonnay is very reminiscent of its Burgundian roots.

Marimar Torres, also of the 4^th generation, carried the same explorer gene, but to California, establishing Marimar Estate. 

Today, the fifth generation continues to shape the future. Miguel Torres Maczassek has found his vision by looking at the family’s ancestral vines that were found scattered throughout the Catalan region. It was a passion project that began in the 1980s with his father which he continued. Over 140 locations/vineyards were visited – many were found purely by chance or word of mouth (other winemakers asking for help to identify a mystery vine). By reviving these ancient grapes where possible, Familia Torres has found a way to improve upon the region’s biodiversity. And yes, they make great on their own plus adding depth & interest to current grapes. A terrific example is Grans Muralles where two treasured ancient grapes – Garro and Querol – are blended with Carinena, Garnacha and Monastrel to make a very unique wine that has an authentic identity of its place.

Mireia Torres, also of the 5^th generation, is the family’s Director of Knowledge & Sustainability, a title that she wears well, which is just a very small part of everything that she does at Familia Torres plus being the Managing Director at Jean Leon.  She is an incredible source of wisdom, not only for her family’s wines, but for the wine world at large in our current era of climate turmoil. 

At the core of her work is a simple reality: vineyards cannot be readily ‘moved’ to another spot that’s more suitable. Instead, her focus is to closely analyse weather trends, making use of the resources at hand with the least possible negative impact on climate and vineyards. Adaptation, mitigation and awareness of an action’s impact are her key goals in everything that she does. 

At Torres, each generation has had its own interpretation of change and survival whether it’s replacing what was there before (generation 1 & 2), planting classic grapes in the traditional soils of Spain, venturing forth and establishing a new part of Familia Torres in other parts of the wine world outside of Spain (generation 3 in Chile, generation 4 in California), and to rediscovering and revitalizing Spain’s ancient grapes to sustain today’s viticultural landscape (generation 4 & 5) plus using all the modern tools of science to analyse what works best with current climate challenges. 

The results are never immediate. it requires patience, just like ageing a bottle of wine. It is survival and a passionate desire to sustain something that brings pleasure to daily life – sharing a glass of wine. 

PS…

Familia Torres is a founding member of Spain’s Regenerative Viticulture Alliance and the International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA). 

In the wine world, they are one of the 12 European wine families who are owners and producers of a very exclusive association called Primum Familiae Vini that share a common ambition – to create excellence and to share their knowledge for the next generation of fine wines. 

Nellie’s career in Hong Kong spans roles as a Food & Wine Consultant for esteemed venues like Olivers and city’super, and as a wine ambassador for Jackson Family Wines. She’s contributed her expertise to Vino Joy, SCMP’s ‘The Corkscrew’, Culture magazine and Decanter, as well as food-styling for the SCMP’s Post Magazine on Sundays (2009-2022). Behind the scenes, she works with restaurants and private clients, focusing on wine education and sommelier coaching. Currently studying with the Court of Master Sommeliers, Nellie aspires to combine her passion for wine with culinary excellence as a Master Sommelier.