Château Lafleur, one of Pomerol’s most prestigious estates, has announced that beginning with the 2025 vintage, its wines will no longer carry the Pomerol AOC designation — nor even the broader Bordeaux AOC label.
The move, the estate said, is driven by the need to adapt to a rapidly changing climate. In a public letter released by the Guinaudeau family and the Lafleur team, they wrote: “Climate is changing fast and hard, that much is clear. The vintages 2015, 2019, and above all 2022, were all strong evidence of that. 2025 goes a step further. We must think, readapt, act.”
They stressed that their decision-making and viticultural practices are evolving faster than the appellation system allows: “Our decision-making and the resulting practices are in fact evolving much faster than what is authorised in our Appellations of Origine system.”
The family added that such changes are essential if Lafleur is to continue producing wines that embody its terroir and ancient vine genetics: “Changes that are crucial if we wish to continue producing the Lafleur wines we dearly love; wines of great terroirs and of noble ancient genetics, crafted to embody the essence and spirit of Lafleur, year-in, year-out.”
From Pomerol to “Vin de France”
Starting in 2025, Lafleur’s wines may depart from traditional AOC restrictions on grape varieties and winemaking methods. Instead, future labels will carry the designation “Vin de France.” The letter, however, did not disclose what precise changes to vineyard or cellar practices might follow.
Founded in 1872 and managed by the Guinaudeau family since 1985, Lafleur is regarded as one of Bordeaux’s most distinctive estates, with a reputation for individuality and scarcity. It is not the first Bordeaux property to break with appellation rules: Liber Pater in Graves has long avoided the AOC framework.
Bordeaux in 2021 has allowed use of six new varietals for regional wines as a reaction of climate change, but Leaving the AOC can offer both freedom and higher pricing power. In 2015, Liber Pater released just 500 bottles of its Vin de France red, of which only 240 were offered for sale, at a price of €30,000 per bottle.
Some merchants believe Lafleur’s move may also aim to boost value. Wu Xianghua, CEO of Chengdu Fine West International Trade Co. and one of China’s Top 100 Wine Importers, told Vino Joy News:
“Pomerol is already an appellation that commands high prices. For Lafleur to give up that label shows confidence that they can produce wines of even greater quality. The AOC’s restrictions on grape varieties and winemaking have become more of a constraint than an advantage.”
Bordeaux’s rigid classifications have long been seen as both a strength and a straitjacket. While they provide structure and price transparency, they can limit estates’ ability to command higher valuations, even when quality surpasses expectations.
Wu also noted that Château Cheval Blanc and Château Ausone, both Premier Grand Cru Classé “A” estates, recently withdrew from the Saint-Émilion classification for similar reasons: “They had confidence in their ability to make better wines and create greater value. In such cases, the regulations became an obstacle rather than a guarantee.”
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