Following its inaugural Burgundy ranking in July, the Michelin Guide has unveiled its latest Bordeaux ranking, conspicuously leaving out famous names including first growth Château Latour that has quickly become the story of the launch.
On September 8, Michelin released its grape selection for France’s famous wine region at the Cité du Vin, awarding the top three-grape rating to nine estates: Château Léoville Las Cases, Château Lafite Rothschild and Château Montrose in the Médoc; Petrus, Château La Conseillante and Château Lafleur in Pomerol; Château Cheval Blanc and Château Figeac in Saint-Émilion; and Château d’Yquem in Sauternes.
But what has generated more conversation than the elevations are the omissions.
Among the five first growth estates, only Château Lafite Rothschild received the maximum three grapes. Château Margaux, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Haut-Brion received two, placing them below second growths Château Montrose and Château Léoville Las Cases.
The contrast sharpens further down the 1855 hierarchy: Château Latour, one of the original first growths, appears in neither the grape awards nor the broader Selected category in the published list.
Even the number of estates recognized is inconsistent. Michelin’s corporate announcement lists 83, while its English Guide article opens with 84 before a closing breakdown that adds up to 83.
The results bring different Bordeaux traditions under a single rating system. The 1855 classification was built around reputation and market prices for the Paris Universal Exhibition, covering Médoc reds, Haut-Brion in Graves, and the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac. Michelin’s selection also folds in Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. Its ratings don’t change any château’s classified status, but the comparison is unavoidable: names occupying different rungs of Bordeaux’s historic hierarchy now stand side by side, while some first growths sit below estates long classified beneath them.
The omissions extend beyond Latour. Ducru-Beaucaillou and Léoville Poyferré, both Saint-Julien second growths, are absent from the published selection, as is Saint-Émilion’s Château Pavie.
The backlash has followed quickly.
On the WineBerserkers forum, one participant called the missing Latour and Ducru-Beaucaillou “glaring omissions.” Others questioned the usefulness of the exercise altogether, though at least one contributor defended the results as broadly reasonable.
How is it assessed?
According to Michelin, wine inspectors work collectively and apply five criteria: agronomy quality, technical mastery, identity, balance and consistency. The assessment evaluates the producer as a whole rather than a single bottle or vintage.
Three grapes recognize exceptional producers whose wines inspire confidence across vintages; two distinguish excellent producers for quality and consistency; one recognizes very good producers with character, particularly in stronger years. A separate Selected category includes recommended estates without a grape award.
Michelin says its inspectors are employees drawn from backgrounds in sommellerie, wine criticism and production, with decisions made collectively and supported by panel review and editorial oversight.
Unlike its restaurant inspections, however, winery visits are not anonymous: Michelin told WineNews that its inspectors introduce themselves and request access to vineyards, cellars and tasting rooms, a lack of anonymity that press representative Lauriane Villate separately confirmed to the San Francisco Chronicle.
That approach makes the objections raised after the Burgundy launch particularly relevant.
Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux received one grape in the July ranking but immediately asked to be removed, as we have reported.
The estate questioned how Michelin’s five-criterion assessment could have been established, saying the domaine had not received Michelin or presented wines to the press since the 2020 vintage, and that its request reflected a longstanding decision to avoid reviews and ratings.
Positive response
Some château leaders, however, welcomed the recognition and the attention it could bring to Bordeaux.
Marielle Cazaux, director of La Conseillante, which received three grapes, said the award could raise the estate’s profile in an appellation more readily associated with Petrus and Lafleur. “This will give us incredible visibility,” she said.
For Jean-Philippe Delmas, director of Château Haut-Brion, which received two grapes, the awards offered an opportunity to strengthen ties between wine and gastronomy. Speaking onstage, he called for French restaurateurs to work more closely with the country’s wine producers, citing Italy as an example of a more integrated approach.
This first selection covers an inaugural list of 21 Selected châteaux, 37 awarded One grape, 16 awarded Two grapes and nine awarded Three grapes.
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