In the world of wines, each bottle tells a story. Some speak of the soil that cradles the vines, others whisper of the seasons that sculpt them, but the most captivating tales are those of enduring bonds and shared dreams. Such is the story of Domaine Franco-Chinois (DFC), nestled in the lush expanses at the foot of Yan Mountain, beside the tranquil waters of Guanting Lake in China’s northern Hebei province.
As Domaine Franco-Chinois celebrates its 25th anniversary, it does so in tandem with the commemoration of 60 years of diplomatic relations between China and France.
The vineyard itself is born out of a pivotal dialogue in 1997 between the two countries‘s state leaders to deepen collaborations on viticulture and winemaking. From there, it planted the seeds of a bicultural partnership. By 1999, the commitment was inked with a pivotal agreement, and soon after, 23 hectares of land were earmarked for a joint venture that would come to exemplify the best of both China and France in wine. By 2005, the sprawling 23-hectare “Sino-French Cooperation Demonstration Vineyard,” has matured into the what we now know today as Domaine Franco-Chinois.
Celebrating a Quarter Century of Wine and Friendship
The celebration of the winery’s 25th anniversary was nothing short of a festival of culture, friendship, and of course, fine wine.
With Richard Li, the charismatic CEO of DFC and its neighoring sister winery Canaan, at the helm, the anniversary event held on June 18 at the newly refurbished winery drew over a hundred luminaries from the realms of government, business, wine industry from both countries, and media. Li expressed his sincere gratitude to the attendees and recounted the history of the winery since its inception.
Speaking to Vino Joy News, Li reflected on the foundational moments that have marked DFC’s significant role in Chinese wine history. “First of all, the Huailai region has a long history of vine-growing; it is the birthplace of the very first bottle of dry wine in China, marking a milestone in the domestic wine industry in 1976. Huailai is also where the very first bottles of sparkling wine and brandy were produced,” he explained.
He further elaborated on the origins of DFC as one of China’s first estate vineyards and a forerunner in the development of fine wines. “Under the collaboration of the two states, France and China, not only were well-selected vines and first-class equipment brought in from France, but also the mindset, philosophy, and expertise necessary for advancing the DFC and China’s wine industry. This collaboration also contributed to the training of the first generation of winemakers in China, including our winemaker Desheng, who was trained in China and France and has been making wines at DFC since the beginning.”
Marselan’s Pilgrimage to China
Central to the story of Domaine Franco-Chinois is the Marselan grape, a red French varietal that is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache.
The grape was first introduced to Chinese soil on April 13, 2001, when 80,525 vine cuttings arrived in Huailai from France for the joint viticulture venture, 10,525 of which are Marselan cuttings. In May of the same year, these Marselan vines were planted in the vineyards of the Sino-French Cooperation Demonstration Vineyard (today’s Domaine Franco-Chinois).
From there, the winery team, a blend of French expertise and Chinese diligence, surgically examined and tested the terroirs. They divided the vast vineyard into 24 distinct plots, each serving as a micro-lab for studying variations in microclimate, soil composition, and vine behavior. This granular approach to viticulture enabled them to tailor their farming techniques to the distinctive characteristics of each plot, ensuring that the best of the varietals would adapt and express Huailai’s own terroir.
Today, after more than 20 years, Marselan has proved itself well-suited to the local climate and soil to the extent that many consider the grape China’s signature grape.
One of the early French experts that devoted time and energy to shaping Domaine Franco Chinois’ early days was Pierre Labruyère. Between 2003 and 2009, he consulted on the winery’s viticulture and winemaking. During the 25th winery anniversary celebration, he reminisced about the initial challenges and triumphs. Labruyère also brought a special gift to the winery, a photo of the first batch of wine produced by the winery in 2003. His story brought a personal touch to the scientific and technical achievements of the winery, reminding everyone of the human element in winemaking.
Biding Its Time
Although the winery was established in 1999, it was not until 20 years later that the wines of Domaine Franco-Chinois were publicly released.
This 20-year period of meticulous refinement and dedication to craft underscores a commitment to excellence—a hallmark of both Sino-French collaboration and the estate’s philosophy. This period of patience has resulted in wines that not only resonate with the connoisseurs but have also earned high praise from critics worldwide including James Suckling, Bettane+Desseauve, and Wine Advocate. Domestically, they are featured on the wine list by a host of Michelin and Black Pearl restaurants (a restaurant rating system by the Chinese dining information website Dianping) and five-star hotels. Its wines are also exported to Singapore, France and among others.
As guests toured the winery and sampled its exceptional vintages—guided by head winemaker Zhao Desheng—the integration of modernist architectural styles with the concept of “integration with nature” and the seamless blend of Chinese and French cultural elements were evident. The tasting featured several wines including its Domaine Franco Chinois Reserve Dry Red 2017, Reserve Marselan 2019 and 2009, its sweet wine Petit Manseng 2018, and its top cuvee Grand Reserve 2014. This was also the first public tasting of the Grand Reserve, a blend of Cabernet and Merlot aged for 18 months in French barrel.
When asked if DFC is considered the first growth in China, Li explained, “We often hear people say Huailai resembles Bordeaux, and we also often hear a certain region in China is similar to Napa, Burgundy, etc. For me, I think no region is the same, each has its own unique characteristics that influence how we cultivate our vines and produce our wines.
“At DFC and our sister winery, Canaan Winery, we strive to ensure our viticultural and winemaking practices are perfectly adapted to our terroir, aiming to produce the finest wines that not only represent Huailai but also stand as a testament to the rich, collaborative spirit of East and West,” he continued.
Discover more from Vino Joy News
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
