Despite ‘unparalleled challenges,’ this industry legend’s optimism in wine is ‘undiminished’

It’s easy to get gloomy about the state of wine.

According to the OIV, global wine consumption has fallen to its lowest level since 1996. Younger generation is losing interest in wine far faster than wine is being produced. Elizabeth Wolkovich’s research, presented at the Harvard Data Science Review’s Vine to Mind Symposium, paints a stark picture: the threat of climate change could potentially eliminate 85% of wine-growing regions worldwide, without varietal diversity.

Yet, despite these daunting challenges, Don St Pierre, a titan in the wine industry who propelled ASC Fine Wines to become the largest wine importer in China, later nurtured the growth of Vinfolio and invested in Vino Joy this year, remains undauntedly optimistic.

The pioneering entrepreneur identifies several reasons to be hopeful about the future of wine, even in these testing times. His optimism begins with what he sees as the inherent magic of wine.

Quoting Hemingway who famously described wine as “one of the most natural things in the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection and it offers a greater range of enjoyment and appreciation than possibly another purely sensory thing”, St Pierre asserts that wine isn’t just a drink—it’s a vital social elixir that eases conversation, soothes stress, and enhances any meal far beyond its taste profile.

“Whether it is the challenge wine faces against those comparing it to tobacco or whether it is the challenge wine faces to connect to the younger consumer, this special element to what wine brings to people’s lives – its capacity to promote conversation, relieve stress and improves the pleasure of any meal way beyond any other form of beverage – ensures that the younger generation will embrace it while remaining less susceptible to regulation vs. other alcohol beverages,” he elaborates.

Another pillar of his optimism is the craftsmanship and generational families that faithfully dedicate to the craft. “This combination of craftsmanship and supported by so many multi-generational families makes the product unique and I believe as the world becomes more automated, true craft and artisanal products will become more important, not less important, and there is little in this world to compare to wine for its history and stories,” he remarks.

The advancement in technology is another key reason bolstering his confidence in wine future particularly in addressing some of the industry’s most pressing and existential issues such as climate change. Furthermore, he stresses, “technology will also give producers, especially those smaller family-owned craft producers a much more practical and powerful way to communicate their stories to the end consumer and as mentioned above, there are so many amazing stories to tell!”

This belief in the power of technology seamlessly connects to his involvement with the Harvard Data Science Review (HDSR), which he serves as an advisor. The open access platform under the Harvard Data Science Initiative is designed to leverage cutting-edge data science to solve complex problems across various fields, including the wine industry.

Founded by Xiao-li Meng, one of the world’s most distinguished statisticians and a quantitatively proven oenophile, this year HSDR celebrated its fifth anniversary. The milestone was marked by the Vine to Mind symposium on June 14, which brought together leading figures from academia and the wine industry to explore innovative solutions.

“The HDSR and the Harvard Data Science Initiative have access to some of the world’s leading researchers and academics. I see an opportunity, through those in this community with a passion and interest in wine, to help the wine industry by bringing the two groups closer together and giving them a platform in which to share information and learn from each other,” says St Pierre, highlighting the potential of the alliance.  

The Vine to Mind symposium on June 14th marked a beginning, according to St Pierre, of a promising marriage between data science and the wine industry, aiming to tackle significant challenges through the application of data science in areas like vineyard selection, climate monitoring, consumer analytics and AI technologies.

Return to China

In markets like China, where data access is becoming limited, the entrepreneur who navigated the complexities of Chinese market stressed the importance of direct engagement. “It is important for producers and stakeholders in the wine industry, who have mid to long term strategic growth plans that would include China (most should!) to have a presence inside China,” explains St Pierre.

He further explains the necessity of having a local team to provide unbiased and real-time insights into the market. “It’s essential to have a person or team on the ground, giving you unbiased feedback on the environment. If producers cannot afford to do this, I do not think China is a market they should be in now. Of course there are exceptions, but for the most part, taking more ownership of your products marketing and distribution is critical,” he continues.

Boasting over 34 years of experiences in shaping distribution and sales channels in the wine industry, St Pierre, attributes much of his success with his crowning achievement, ASC Fine Wines, in China to transparency and trust. “Our success in the past was due to many factors, but one of the most important was transparency and trust with the producers who we imported and represented in China. Today this is even more important given how difficult it is for those outside China to understand what is happening inside,” he explains.

“There will always be an important role for partners inside China to help those outside China navigate the markets complexities and opportunities and while the way this is done successfully is changing quickly, the importance of maintaining trust through transparent, honest communication has never been more important,” he stressed.  

“There will always be an important role for partners inside China to help those outside China navigate the markets complexities and opportunities and while the way this is done successfully is changing quickly, the importance of maintaining trust through transparent, honest communication has never been more important.”

Don St Pierre

This June, St Pierre made the bold decision to move back to China, a market that has experienced profound changes in the past two decades —from the explosive growth of the early 2000s to the prosperous mid-2010s, and the recent slowdown exacerbated by the pandemic. Despite these fluctuations, he remains sanguine on the market, noting the encouraging transformation: consumers moving from following prescribed choices to making independent decisions about what they want to drink.

“While this change is reducing demand, it is temporary and as more consumers in China learn about wine, consumption will rise again but this time it will be much more sustainable and there is nothing but reason for hope as it relates to the match between Chinese culture and drinking wine over a meal or with friends,” he elaborates.

Technology will also play “an outsized role” for helping wineries communicate their stories, he believes. Furthermore, younger generations will increasingly appreciate craft and artisanal products, thereby enhancing the appeal of wine.

Now nearly three decades after founding ASC Fine Wines with his late father, he sees his return not merely as a comeback but as an extension of personal mission. “I am returning to play a role in this new normal for wine in China, I see this as a continuation of what my father and I started in 1996,” he concluded.