The Three Chinese Wineries That Gave Laura Catena Goosebumps 

“Their stories gave me goosebumps,” exclaims Laura Catena, the acclaimed Argentine winemaker, as she unveils the details of the Chinese edition of her book, “Gold in the Vineyards.” This edition introduces readers to three Chinese wineries whose captivating tales have earned them a place alongside some of the world’s most renowned vineyards, such as Chateau Lafite Rothschild and Marchesi Antinori.

The spotlight falls on Domaine Franco-Chinois in northern Hebei, Silver Heights in Ningxia, and Puchang Vineyards in Xinjiang. Each of these wineries are featured in the new Chinese release, following the book’s successful editions in English, Spanish, and Portuguese.

The Chinese edition of the book has already received critical acclaim from Fortune and The Drinks Business and Decanter.

Among the Chinese winery stories – whether it was an old couple’s wine dream for Xinjiang that bounded over a romantic love song, or a Taiwan entrepreneur’s disappointment in not finding a Chinese wine at business banquets or a generational aspiration from a father-and-daughter duo in Ningxia, Laura notes a significant parallel.

“What’s really great,” Laura shares, “is that the Chinese stories are no different from the Western stories. It’s the same fundamental narrative: someone falls a little crazy in love with wine and is determined to prove that they can produce an exceptional wine. Each story shares this common thread of someone with a big dream. My goal with the book was to highlight that common thread connecting these renowned wineries from across the globe.”

According to the winemaker the book took four years to research and write, and she found the best help in professor Li Demei, who she aptly calls “a walking encyclopedia of Chinese wine” as the co-author of the Chinese edition.

“Over four years, I consulted with Chinese importers, journalists like Ian D’Agata, and read every book I could find on Chinese wine,” she explains and eventually found the three Chinese wineries, each with a compelling story, distinctive terroir, and a signature grape variety. 

As for unique grape, Puchang caught her attention with a hybrid grape called Beichun, a crossing between local wild grapes and Muscat made without sulphite. Domaine Franco-Chinois was a pioneer in popularizing Marselan, who brought the first cuttings to China, and Silver Heights was the first Bordeaux blend to gain international recognition.

“By sharing these stories, I hope to convey the value and uniqueness of these exceptional vineyards all over the world in an entertaining and approachable illustrated format,” she explains. 

The reaction from the book launch at China’s biggest wine and spirits fair in Chengdu earlier this year was both exciting and unexpected. “I don’t think people have ever seen a book like this before,” she enthused, given her illustrated book focuses more on the human stories than the pedantic side of winemaking.

She hopes that her book can help shift local wine consumers’ perception of wine from a symbol of status to a meaningful expression of tradition and history.

“What I want to show is that it’s really about the land and the connection to the land and the history of a family,” she reflects, “especially in China, where many have moved from rural areas to cities, wine can serve as a tangible link to the land—a connection you simply don’t get with beverages like whiskey.”

Ageing Potential of Argentine Wines

As she discusses the impact of her book on the global perception of Chinese wines, she shifts her focus to challenge another long-held perception closer to home: the aging potential of Argentine wines.

“Unfortunately, we don’t have a large selection of wines from the ’90s or earlier, even though my family has been involved in winemaking since the early 20th century. The oldest wines we have are from the ’60s, and they’re quite scarce. This made me realize the importance of demonstrating the aging potential of Argentine wines,” Laura explains.

To showcase this, Laura is set to host a masterclass at Vinexpo Asia in Hong Kong on May 29, presenting a vertical tasting of Catena wines with vintages reaching back to 2004. This session is a key part of her global tour, which includes previous tastings in London and New York, aiming to illustrate that Argentine wines can indeed mature as gracefully as those from the most esteemed Old World regions.

“I think that there is there’s a little bit of a misconception that you know Old World wine ages better than New World wine and then for Argentina I think our wines age just as well as the best of burgundy and the best of Bordeaux,” she asserts.

After the masterclass on May 30, Laura Catena will be signing the Chinese edition of Gold in the Vineyards book from 1 to 3pm at Catena Zapata Stand No 1H349. The book will also be available to purchase at the stand.