Japan’s ‘Zen-like’ Koshu Goes Global

In an overcrowded global wine market, where trends come and go, one wine star has quietly proven that it is here to stay.

The autochthonous white grape variety Koshu has been cultivated in Japan for one thousand years. DNA analysis shows that Koshu originated from the Caucus region, now modern Georgia and Armenia, and made its way through the Silk Road. Koshu is about 80% Vitis Vinifera, with the remaining component from a wild species, Vitis Davidii.

According to Japan’s trade board, JETRO, Koshu is the most popular grape by vinification volume. It is cultivated mostly in Yamanashi prefecture, 2 hours from Tokyo. As well as being picturesque with Mount Fuji looming in the background, Yamanashi boasts the longest growing season, allowing Koshu to reach optimum maturity.

So, what makes Koshu so beguiling? Jancis Robinson once described Koshu as “zen-like.” It has restrained aromatics, with notes of citrus, yuzu, jasmine, and white flowers. On the palate, it is dry, delicate, with crisp acidity. Koshu is versatile and can be chameleon-like, matching the full smorgasbord of Japanese cuisine.

One of the early pioneers of Koshu is Grace Wine, founded in 1923 in Yamanashi. Ayana Misawa represents the fifth-generation family member and winemaker. Misawa believes that a few important milestones marked the turning point for Koshu. In 2009, Koshu of Japan (KOJ) was established to improve and promote the quality of Koshu. In 2010, the International Organisation of Vine (OIV) officially recognized the variety Koshu. This meant that Koshu was allowed to appear on wine labels for export to the EU and other countries. In the meantime, Koshu wines were picking up trophies and accolades from international wine competitions, such as the Decanter World Wine Awards, increasing its recognition and prominence.

Hong Kong is the third-largest export market for Grace Wine. Betsy Haynes, Managing Director of Northeast Wines & Spirits, and the HK importer of Grace says, “Japanese wine in HK is still a niche category. When you believe in the quality and the people behind it, it’s like a passion project – gathering like-minded people that appreciate Grace wine, which brings out the sense of place of Yamanashi.”

HK has a long-standing love and affinity for all things Japanese, from popular culture to its cuisine. During Covid, Haynes says, “the popularity of a Japanese TV drama which featured Koshu, and the cellar door of Grace Wines catapulted the wines into people’s homes.” HK sommeliers, who are always looking to “showcase quality wines from Asia,” remain Koshu’s staunch supporters. Japanese wines often feature on some of the top restaurant wine lists. Sommeliers use descriptions such as “clean, precise, and quality assurance” in describing Grace, reaffirming the importance of provenance and trust.

Both Misawa and Haynes believe that education, promotion, wine tourism, and above all, wine QUALITY is critical for Koshu to retain its current success. Koshu is heading in the right direction, as the saying, “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery,” is never truer. Koshu is starting to be cultivated in other wine regions, from the Rheingau, California, to Nimes in France.